DBC Darlings,
My mind (and work) routinely returns to jewelry, so please allow me to pick up from where I left off, and address a concern that has grown larger since my last e-newsletter: our investment in the decorative arts—jewelry in particular—is in decline. We aren’t buying jewelry or building collections like before. What’s worse is that we are not studying jewelry. We have so much to learn from objects, but so few places left to study them. For instance, GW discontinued its Master’s program in Decorative Arts and Design in 2022. (I moved to Washington DC at the same time and couldn’t help but take it personally!) Sadly, it is as difficult to see decorative arts in our nation’s capital as it is to study them (Hillwood being an exception). The National Gallery devotes an entire room in I. M. Pei’s East Wing to Alexander Calder’s work, yet not a single jewel is on display. Why?
Objects tell our history. How we design, make, wear and live with them—whether a writing desk, an Apple Watch, or a pearl necklace—reveals something essential about how we live and who we are. That is why we must do a better job weaving them into conversations and collections (museum and personal). It’s also why I hope—perhaps even plan—to return to teaching.
In the meantime, my eldest daughter Sage turns 13 this week, and it seems the perfect time to begin her own jewelry collection. With what jewel do you begin? My advice: start with a foundational piece. Save the statement jewels for later. You want the first piece to endure, so design is key. Consider the artist, time period, and material—their stories will shape your own.
So what jewel will I give Sage next week? Elsa Peretti’s iconic open-heart necklace. Peretti dared to reimagine the universal symbol of the heart, creating a design that was both deceptively simple and profoundly original. The form and fluidity of her design transformed the heart into something entirely her own, and one of Tiffany’s most enduring creations. While it’s debated who first suspended the heart sideways on a chain, the off-center orientation accentuates the heart’s openness and originality—unmistakable hallmarks of Peretti’s work. She wasn’t just a designer; she was a trailblazer. Bold. Unapologetic. Singular.
That’s why I wanted to start Sage’s collection with this piece. It’s not just about the open heart—symbolizing love and receptiveness—it’s about a woman daring to imagine something new, and succeeding. One wonders why Peretti has yet to receive a museum retrospective of her own. Let’s change that.
❤️ Stay well and adorned, x
P.S. Some things sparkle more when shared so click here to forward.